Origins

The SAPE style began to develop when the Congo was a French colony: "many Congolese people were fascinated with French sophistication and decided to emulate the French mode". Historically the dream of the Sapeur is to go to Paris, the capital of Fashion, and return as an "aristocrat of ultimate elegance". For many their chance came after the Second World War, as the Congolese soldiers that had fought with the French in Paris came home dressed as dandies.

French Colonialists with indigenous Congolese men.

            Andre Grenard Matsou – one of the most influential figures in Congolese politics – is often sited as a the original Sapeur. Matsou was a revolutionary, fighting for human rights and freedom from the colonial reign. Having spent time working in Paris he returned in 1922 as the first Colgolese to dress as an authentic Frenchman, not in traditional African robes. Whilst initially this provoked uproar, it was soon followed by admiration.

            Following the countries’ independence in 1960 Joseph Mabutu assumed power, attempting to stop the spread of imitators by implementing a strict non-western dress code. Papa Wemba, a Congolese singer, sought to challenge the status quo “not vocally, but visually”, dressing himself and his band Viva La Musica in the French inspired tailoring. It was Wemba who first came up with the acronym SAPE. Following his example, the Sapeurs used their appearance as an act of rebellion. Representative of the freedom of expression, Sapeur style has continued to attract huge numbers of followers. 

Papa Wemba (centre) and Viva La Musica