Monday 11 March 2013

Style



“The white man might have invented clothes, but we have turned it into an art.”

Robert de Montesquiou, demonstrating 1920s Parisien fashion

Whilst the roots of the style lie in 1920s Paris, modern day Sapeurs reimagine the suit in an array of vibrant colours. “A good Sapeur has to know the rules of harmoniously matched colours without being excessive,” combining a maximum of three colours in an outfit. The tone of these colours can distinguish between diplomats (politicians, ambassadors or television journalists) and Gentlemen. The former much combine clothes in more conventional tones of blue, grey or black; the latter is an artist and can wear whatever colours they choose. In both cases is it important eccentricity does not overcome the key principals of elegance. “A sense of measure and a good culture is always required.”
A Gentlemen and a Diplomat

The cigar is an essential prop in conveying this. Although almost always unlit, the cigar is expensive and so adds value to the suit worn. A gentlemen Sapeur is always expected to ask his neighbour if he may light his cigar, making it a symbol of “excellence and refinement”.  
Cigars - the symbol of refinement

However despite appearances, the Sapeurs are not rich men. Living in shanty towns in a country with a recent history of war, they work hard to dedicate as much money as they can towards the most beautiful suits they can find. Sapeurs may buy their clothes from fairly cheap shops or swap expensive clothes with others in order to keep up an impression of affluence. Many are designers or makers by trade and so can repair members outfits. It is not money that makes a Sapeur, but style. “As a Sapeur you have to find your very own style, something that is you. The Scottish man’s style is me and many people love it.”
Sapeurs in full Scottish evening dress

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